Day 8: Hiroshima Peace Memorial Museum

A leisurely morning breakfast, Japanese at last.  Norman Mizuguchi joined us so we talked politics!  Lots of fun and interesting insights and gossip.

A little later Lloyd Kawakami and his friend Mike Onouye arrived for breakfast too.  Tonight Manoa DNA  perform at the banquet so had a sound check to do.

We walked through the underground  again to the Peace Memorial Museum, A-Bomb Dome and Peace Park.  The energy was quiet and reverent as soon as we entered the park.  I felt introspective as we walked closer and around the remains of the Dome.  It is a sobering and humbling experience to actually be where this horrific tragedy took place.  Many foreign tourists were there and we all spoke in hushed, low voices.  It is awe-inspiring and beautiful at the same time.  In the park also sits the children's memorial where thousands of origami tsuru are brought to honor Sachiko.  Today there were many school classes visiting the memorial and walking the museum.

I was not apprehensive entering the museum despite the warnings I received.  Yes, it is somewhat graphic and unbelievable that humans can do this to each other.  The museum is well laid-out, beginning with the events of the war in Asia, leading up to America's decision to bomb Japan.

Written letters, drawings , videos and photos document the plan by the U.S. president.  It is terrible to read; no one could anticipate the effect of the atomic bomb on human life.

So much information is available here and some of it is very cruel and disgusting.  This is something every person living today should see.  It has changed my perception of the world powers.  I hope this never happens again.

I don't believe anyone cannot be affected by the documented horror of living through the bombing.  There are still some survivors living today.

Believe it or not, we had lunch after that!  Hiroshima style okonomiyaki!  Yum!  Must try to make it at home for the family.

Shopped a little downtown but had to be back to rest and change for the banquet--15th year celebration of Hiroshima/Hawaii sister cities. This is the business part of the trip.   Award certificates by Wayne.  Speeches by Brian, Gov. Yuzaki, Consul General of the U.S. and musical performance by Taiko Group and Manoa DNA.

Packing tonight to send large suitcase to Narita so we can travel light on the Shinkansen on Saturday. (This must be done two days ahead to ensure arrival in Narita airport for our departure to Honolulu.)

Day 7: Hiroshima, at last

This morning we breakfasted with Wayne and Norman Sakamoto.  Beginning to see all the other tour participants from Hawaii.  Everyone arrived on different flights and many are jet-lagged.

I think Susan and I did the smart thing by going to Tokyo first and becoming acclimated before the meetings and events in Hiroshima. 

Today's bus tour was courtesy of the Hiroshima Prefectual government.  A wonderful ride into the country (approx. 1 hour) brought us to Kumano Fude (brush).  Not enough time to explore and learn about the art and craft of hand made brushes, because we had to listen to welcome speeches by dignitaries from both cities!  Watched a master craftsman partially assemble the bristles--not enough time! to fully appreciate the art, as the tour guide had to keep us on schedule and didn't allow us to wander.  Was able to purchase hand made cosmetic brushes!  What a treasure!

Another hour later we arrive in the town of Saijo, a major sake producing center.  The pure mountain water and specially grown rice are the reasons this sake is so prized. So one yen of every liter sold goes into the watershed initiative.  This yen goes back into the industry to maintain the mountains, forests and water table so it continues to provide water for the brewing of sake.  High rises have gone up circling the town and the cement piles driven into the ground contaminate the water so it appears that the sake breweries have their own water piping system. 

Walking this little town is going back to a time of wooden factories and homes.  Traditional Japanese homes of the brewery owners were immaculate, though generations old.  This home is over 100 years old.  The gardens within the compound is truly healing and relaxing.  Our host was Kamotsuru Brewery.

The second brewery, Kamoizumi, is  owned by 'sake maverick'

Mr. Maizaki. He is known for his creative sake marketing. Mrs Maizaki is an indigo artist.  She showed Susan and me her vats and there were some pieces of her work for sale.  Again, not enough time to talk and absorb from a true artist.  Her English is excellent so I was able to ask a few questions.  Purchased a small apron with the brewery's logo and skin care made of sake lees!  the group (not me) needed to be back in town for a dinner hosted by Governor Yuzaki. 

The late afternoon was still ahead of us so Susan and I went underground.  Shareo is a shopping area laid out like spokes around a center core.  It also is a crossroads/transfer point for subways underground and buses upstairs.  What a concept-a transportation hub.  Many, many shops and restaurants radiate out from the center.  Dinner was at a pasta cafe similar to Pietro.  Delicious!  Have not had a bad meal in Japan!

Because the layout is a circle, shops are open to walk through, I had to keep my bearings.  Not!  Susan knew her way around. 

Back above ground, we stopped for coffee in a sidewalk cafe just like in Paris!  It was a pleasant, breezy summer night and many people were out even though it was 9:00 pm.  This city has lots of bike riders using bikes to commute or just get around the city.  Wish I could take one of the small, short bikes home with me.

Day 6: Kyoto to Hiroshima on the Shinkansen

Got up early and walked through Nishiki Market.  This is another covered arcade but with food shops galore!  Wish I could have brought back everything I saw.  We also hit Loft and Takashimaya after lunch and actually got lost walking back to the hotel.  It was like a twilight zone episode--when the familiar become strange--it seemed like the hotel disappeared.  I had never been to Kyoto and did not get my bearings well enough.

Still, we made it back to the hotel, did a quick check out and got a taxi to the train station.  Kyoto station is so large that you must tell the taxi driver if you are taking a "train" or the Shinkansen.  Entrances are different.  So specialized and yet convenient.  Another short two hour ride with one transfer brought us to our final destination, Hiroshima. 
This route went through the countryside, hilly with green bamboo forests, cedar and other conifers.
The Rhiga Royal Hotel is first class!  Nice single room tonight.  My suitcase sent from Tokyo, was waiting in my room. 
Met Wayne's friend, Mr. Nakaiki who graciously and generously hosted our dinner and karaoke after dinner .

Tomorrow, Tuesday, begins the 'package-tour' segment, in which we join the others traveling from Honolulu.

Day 5: Shinkansen from Tokyo to Kyoto

Going by train is such a civilized way to travel.  Our departure was early in the morning (7:30am).  Being Sunday, the station was empty and we had Green Car reserved seats.

The Shinkansen (bullet train) is so smooth-riding and fast!  There are rarely any bumps even though I could hear the train wheels on the tracks.  It glides so smoothly but does have a little side to side sway. The Japan Rail (JR) trains and system are notorious for running on schedule to the split second!

Arrived two hours later in Kyoto; before lunch and check in time.  Kyoto has somewhat of a casual vibe compared to Tokyo.  Since we couldn't check into our hotel, we stored our bags in lockers at the train station and took a local train and then a local bus to Mizu no Mori to see water lilies and lotuses.  Not lotus season yet! But the lilies were in bloom.  This was a healing and relaxing day.  The local bus wound through the outskirts of Kyoto and wherever there was space, a rice field was planted.  The homes are just like those seen on TV.

I was inspired to put colorful, seasonal plants outside my front door.

Back in the city we walked to Sanjodori shopping arcade.  This connects to Teramachi and many, many other covered arcades.

We met Susan's sister Nan and her  husband Ed, at Katsukura tonkatsu restaurant for dinner. 

Toyoko Inn is a cute little hotel, just right for overnight.  Breakfast in the lobby was perfect for us, onigiri, tsukemono and miso shiru.  Susan made a good observation that this little hotel caters to women by the following indications:

• Welcome packet of useful items, hairband, shampoo, conditioner etc.
• Breakfast provided in lobby
• Women clerks at Front Desk



Tokyo Day 4: Saturday on Ginza

Breakfast with Wayne & Kevin at Milano cafe in the food court in the hotel plaza.  Servings were just right and I should have stopped with the breakfast sandwich but the French toast looked so good.  Japanese coffee is nice and strong but not bitter.

Kevin went off to meet his friend while we three took the train for Shibuya.  It was just as I remember it.  Crazy with crowds.  Saturday everyone goes out shopping, especially young adults.  Thanks again to Susan's memory, I got music CDs for Noah and Nicole at Tsutaya.

Lunch was Chinese at Parco.  No time to shop there, wanted to go to Tokyu Hands.  Seven floors of all kinds of stuff, two hours there was not enough time.

With Kevin waiting at Hachiko, we decided to got Ginza Itoya by subway.  Got lucky! Chuo dori was closed to cars today!  It made walking to Uniqlo so much more pleasant.  Uniqlo is not for us--sizes are too small!

Itoya kept its promise and did not disappoint.  Got some new rubber stamps and neck coolers there.  Dinner at G-Zone Gonpachi in the building right across Seiyo Ginza Hotel.

So tired tonight, I left my backpack full of gifts in the cab.  We spend a tense hour working with two hotel staff to try to reach the cab driver.  Yokatta!  He came back and I had my precious bag within an hour!  It made me realize always keep your important docs and money on your person.  My backpack was full of purchases but they were just that, stuff.  And could have been replaced if necessary.

I always wear my purse cross-body.  It has my passport, wallet, room key etc. in it.  This, I make sure is with me at all times.  Doesn't come off my body even when I sit down for meals.  Can't afford to lose this in a foreign country.  There is no back-tracking in a huge city like Tokyo.

What a relief when Guest Relations Agent Bando-san called and came up to deliver my backpack. 


Resolve:  never leave anything on the floor of a cab.  Never fall asleep in a cab.  Put bright color straps or reflectors on this backpack so it never gets forgotten.
Midnight now and suitcases are in Wayne's tiny room, ready to be sent by takkyubin-delivery service to Hiroshima.

We travel by early Shinkansen to Kyoto tomorrow.

Tokyo Day 3... more to follow...

Got back on the subway and followed instructions to a new trendy area called Jiyugaoka.  As with most things in this country, even the weather report is accurate.  A light drizzle was predicted so I needed a new 500 yen pink plastic polk-dot umbrella.
Jiyugaoka is another neighborhood that is becoming gentrified and yuppi-fied.  Susan was first here three years ago and remarked on how much more built up and refined it has become.  Similar to my reaction to memories of Yurakucho.

Street after street after cross streets of homestyle and lifestyle shops fill this area around the train station.  By this time of day we needed a respite.  The rain had stopped so we walked into Afternoon Tea, which we had hoped had a care.  It did not but it did have a Marimekko shop next door.  It continues to astound me how everyone stays in business.  The demographic is very young--very young pre-school children with mothers, all well-dressed and spending the day meeting other young mothers and playing, shopping and eating in the cafes and street fair atmosphere of this mostly pedestrian-only enclave.  Jiyugaoka is new money; young people of affluence.  Here the almost total absence of "things Japanese" is noticeable.  This is an area that is trying to be white, rich and trendy.  Young toddlers with moms shopping at the "right stores" for  baby clothes, scrapbooking, kitchen ware and generally channeling Martha Stewart.

Hurried back to Shinagawa Prince to meet Wayne and Kevin for dinner.  They had arrived this afternoon from Honolulu.  A fabulous dinner at Cha Cha Shirokanedai.  This izakaya is down steep, rail-less stairs in an apartment building.  Beautiful food.  Small dishes, beer and sake!  Yum!



Wall is gold leaf









Tokyo Day 3: Tricky Travel

Tricky traveling today; used obscure (to me) private train/subway line--I've never been in this area of town.  The ride seemed a little long so I assumed we were going to the suburbs--whatever that means in Tokyo's urban sprawl.

Azabu-Juban station was deep underground.  We guessed we rode up 10 flights of escalators to get to the street level.
This neighborhood was a delightful surprise after two days in central Tokyo.  I even found K's Hair Salon branch on AJ street.  The ambience of Azabu-Juban (AJ) is a combination of Europe and Japan.  The streets are narrow cobblestones.  I think Europeans must have settled here at one time in the past.  Today many of the old buildings have been remodeled to house shops and restaurants.  AJ is old money; a nice blend of East and West.  Noticed larger models of cars-Jaguars, Mercedes, and even a Bentley.

We went to AJ in search of Amy Katoh's "Blue and White" shop, a famous indigo shop.  By a fortuitous wrong turn, we ended up finding Asa no Ha, tenugui shop which Susan says may be better than Fujiya in Asakusa. 

I got some nice cool summer patterns for the dining room.  Found a 100 yen store and had lunch at Windsor Cafe.                                                 It was frustrating getting directions to Blue and White  from various people.  Being sent in several different directions, we finally found the shop up a hill and around a corner, next to the Peacock Market; one block from the station at which we first arrived!  Blue and White may have been anti-climatic because we found the other tenugui shop first.  Blue and White is a short 4 minute walk from the subway station, up a meandering hill--if you can find this street in a city without street signs and addresses.

AJ reminds me of Capitol Hill in Seattle.  Narrow streets with cute, fun boutiques and many coffee shops built on a hilly slope.  Ballard also comes to mind.  And even Paris--the sidewalk cafes where one can sit on a drizzly day and people-watch.

By the way, the rain signals the beginning of the season called "Tsuyu", a warm rainy span preceding full summer.  This rain is a warm shower that only adds to the humid still air.  The subway is the only escape.  Most shops and cafes are not air-conditioned or are abiding by the government's request to lower electricity use during the summer of high demand.

Kahala mall could also be used to describe AJ.  We saw the beginnings of the "green foods" trend and even juicing for health and one natural foods store.  Smelled just like entering Whole Foods and Umeke Market.  Many of the same American products lined the shelves.

Tokyo Day 2: Part 2 Sky Tree Grows in Tokyo

Japan's newest and tallest tower opened May 22nd and sold-out tickets to the observation decks by lottery!  Knowing this we still had to go-see Sky Tree Town!!!

We sat outside this incredibly well-planned new city, (formerly called Sumida) next to the river.  Remarking on how we are astounded at how such complex coordination is required; planned, undertaken and completed all at the same time.  Thereby avoiding any traffic problems and visitor disappointments.  In Sky Tree Town there are/is:

1.  The tower

2.  The plaza with shops and restaurants

3.  A new subway line.

4.  New roads and a huge parking lot

5.  Pedestrian walkways and green spaces to sit in and enjoy the cool breeze off the river. 

6.  Paved river promenade.

We marveled at how smooth this operation was going, then went into the souvenir shop called One, Two, Tree.  Very tiny, allows customers in as customers leave.

It was now very cool as the sun had gone past the tall buildings casting shadows.  We decided to take a combination of train and subway back to Shinagawa.
Tonkatsu dinner in Shinagawa Strings Intercontinental Center.  Huge new office and retail towers joined by wide elevated walkways.  Again, many workers out and about even at 8pm.  Walking at night is not a lonely and scary thing in Japan.  We felt safe even as visitors.

Note:  An expandable, rolling shopping tote that is lightweight, fold able, yet made of strong fabric is a must in Tokyo.  Also should be compact to pack in suitcase.

Tokyo Day 2

My body clock is still a little off.  Even after 9 to 10 hours out walking and shopping; legs tired, hot and humid, I keep getting up every 2 hours during the night.  Maybe I'm too excited being in Tokyo and want to make sure I don't miss a minute.

Breakfast--I forgot how good Japanese yogurt tastes.  We head out to Ameyoko after a light hotel breakfast,perhaps a little jet-lagged and dehydrated after the long day of flying then hitting the ground  running, yesterday.

Ameyoko (Okachimachi station on Yamanote line) was just beginning to bustle at 10am.  Luckily Susan remembered the hair pins for Nicole because I was distracted by all the other products in the drug stores.  We found our spray on hair color for only Y580.

The nori vendor was friendly as Susan got her quota for this trip.  Next to him was a tea seller and we got stuck there tasting green tea candy and sipping fragrant peach green tea.  These make perfect take-home gifts. I found a sakura shaped spoon to go with the gift pack.  Got myself a little tea strainer too.

Kept seeing the BB cream that is only now catching on in Honolulu.  Got Japanese sunscreen and hair gel.  Love these corner drugstores. (The hair gel was a huge tube for around $3.00--too big; got confiscated at Narita TSA).

The day was heating up and our bags were full and heavy.  Learned that not every station has storage lockers.  Susan needed a new, larger tote bag for all the omiyage she'd gotten so far.

We needed a break so sat on tatami at Owariya, an historic 100 year old restaurant in Asakusa.  Tenzaru soba really hit the spot.  The shrimp was crispy and fragrant with sesame oil.

Nakamise is very touristy and there were a lot of them!  There was a 'parade' of drag queens and throngs of groupies and film people surrounding them.  We had to move out of their way as they swept past us to the shrine.

The two side streets were much more calm and nostalgic. We sat in the shade of a wisteria pergola with a few tourists and enjoyed our melon ice bars.  Fujiya Tenugui was closed!! (Thurs)  Kanaya-tawashi shop--Horse hair toothbrushes.  There are temples and shrines everywhere in Tokyo.  I love coming across one in a busy shopping area. 

HNL to TKY  May 2012

Tue/Wed May 21/22:  From Honolulu to Tokyo.  Our flight left on time and was full of tourists returning to China.  Not a pretty sight; lots of pushing and cutting lines.  Restrooms were constantly full.

The time flew by for me because I watched three movies on the seat back screen:  J.Edgar, My Week with Marilyn and The Descendants.  Enjoyed all.

Narita is a shiny new  airport since I last visited 17 years ago.  Breezed through immigration and customs.  Fingerprint scanner and camera not withstanding.  (Remember to fill in the blank "occupation"; never leave it blank!)

Susan's foresight and planning made our transition so smooth and quick.  Plus, Narita mid week seemed rather empty. 
Shipped Wayne's suitcase ahead to Hiroshima, then got our JR passes and train ticket assignments downstairs at the JR East Travel Center. You must know the exact time and destination of your trains.  (or I guess you could wing it).  The girls are bilingual and very patient.  This transportation system is fantastic.  I also purchased a SUICA card to use on the local trains and subways.  These are also refillable.

We took the Limo bus to the Shinagawa Prince Hotel.  Location is great!  The station is immense and has lots of shops and restaurants which I found, stayed open late into the night.  Checked in, dropped our suitcases and got on the Yamanote Line.




Waiting for the Yamanote train

 




Our first stop was Akihabara, Denki (Electric) Town.  I was a little disappointed at the lack of product selection.  As I remember it, there were a myriad of duty free shops catering to us tourists.  Cameras galore, audio players, video cameras, watches and much more.  I guess the economy determines supply and with no demand......

But we found some fun little gifts.

Akihabara




Yurakucho Yakitori Bar

 

On to Yurakucho.  It was dinner time for us so we found a good yakitori bar under the train tracks near Shimbashi.  Yurakucho is so cleaned up and gentrified now, I almost didn't recognize the place.  Kinda lost some of it's old-time charm.  Nevertheless, this was a cultural and delicious experience.

We asked our waiter for directions to the Godzilla statue.  We found it close to the Shimbashi station/Ginza 4-chome-5-chome.  Next to the 7-ll store.  Back to Shinagawa Station and the place was still jumping.  So many trains and subways pass through here that the little shops and restaurants are open very late.  Picked up some snacks and water.



Godzilla still lives in Tokyo